Local residents have successfully fought various proposals to build a golf course on Moorea, so for the time being, stay on Tahiti if you must play. Moorea also has no public tennis courts, so pick a hotel that has them if tennis is important to you.
Dolphin- & Whale-Watching -- One of the best things to do on Moorea is a dolphin- and whale-watching excursion led by American marine biologist Dr. Michael Poole (tel. 56.23.22 or 77.50.07; criobe@mail.pf [put "Michael Poole" in the subject line]). An expert on sea mammals and a leader in the effort to have French Polynesian waters declared a whale sanctuary, Dr. Poole will take you out beyond the reef to meet some of the 150 acrobatic spinner dolphins he has identified as regular Moorea residents. In calm conditions and if the animals are agreeable, you can don snorkeling gear and swim with them. You'll also be on the lookout for pilot whales that swim past year-round and giant humpback whales that frequent these waters from July to October. The half-day excursions cost about 6,700CFP ($67) for adults, 3,350CFP ($34) for kids, including pickup at most hotel docks. Make reservations in advance, and be prepared not to go if the sea isn't calm.
Among the many activities at the Inter-Continental Moorea Beachcomber Resort (see "Watersports"), and by far the most popular, is Dolphin Quest (tel. 55.19.48; www.dolphinquest.org). These encounters with the intelligent sea mammals are sure to excite young and old alike. Children as young as 5-year-olds can wade in shallow water with the dolphins. (The animals live in a fenced area, although Dolphin Quest professes to be dedicated to their care and conservation). Kids 12 and older can join adults in snorkeling with the mammals in deeper water. The 1-hour wading excursions cost 17,600CFP ($176) for adults, 11,000CFP ($110) for children 5 to 12. There's a 1-hour dolphin training excursion where you get to help train the animals. This costs 19,800CFP ($198) for kids and adults. A 3-hour "Sea Quest" trip includes mixing with other sealife as well as the dolphins, for 44,000CFP ($440) per person. Call for reservations.
Fishing -- Chris Lilley, an American who has won several sportfishing contests, takes guests onto the open ocean in search of big game on his Tea Nui (tel. 55.19.19, ext. 1903, or 56.15.08 at home; teanuiservices@mail.pf). You can go out for half a day for about 15,500CFP ($155) per person, or charter the boat for a whole day for about 61,500CFP ($615). In keeping with South Pacific custom, you can keep the little fish you catch; Chris sells the big ones. Chris is based at the Inter-Continental Moorea Beachcomber Resort.
Hiking -- You won't need a guide to hike from the coast road up the Opunohu Valley to Belvédère Lookout. Up and down will take most of a day. It's a level but hot walk along the valley floor and steep approaching the lookout. Bring lots of water. Several unmarked hiking trails lead into the mountains, including one beginning in Cook's Bay and ending on the east coast. It's best to go with a guide or take an organized walk. Moorea-based Tahiti Evasion (tel. 56.48.77; www.tahitievasion.com) has half-day treks to the archeological sites in the Opunohu Valley, across Three Coconuts Pass between the Belvédère and the south coast, and to the Afreaitu waterfall and the pierced Mt. Tohiea. Prices range from 3,500CFP to 6,000CFP ($35-$60) per person.
Horseback Riding -- Landlubbers can go horseback riding along the beach and into the interior with Tiahura Ranch (tel. 56.28.55), west of Club Med, or with Pegasus Ranch (tel. 56.34.11) in Maharepa. Rates are about 6,000CFP ($60) for a 1 1/2-hour ride.
Scuba Diving -- Although Moorea's lagoon is not in the same league with those at Rangiroa, Fakarava, or even Bora Bora, its outer reef has some decent sites for viewing coral and sea life. The island's best diving operator is TOPdive (tel. 56.17.32; www.topdive.com), with bases in Cook's Bay and at the Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa. Also excellent is Gilles Pétré's Moorea Blue Nui Dive Center (tel. 55.17.50; www.bluenui.com) at the Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa. On the northwest coast, the Inter-Continental Moorea Beachcomber Resort is home to Bathy's Club Moorea (tel. 55.19.19, ext. 1139), and Scubapiti Moorea (tel. 56.30.38) resides at Hotel Les Tipaniers. All charge about 6,500CFP ($65) for one dive, including equipment (gauges are metric). Beginners' lessons cost about 7,500CFP ($75).
Watersports -- Most hotels have active watersports programs for their guests, such as glass-bottomed-boat cruises and snorkeling in, or sailing on, Moorea's beautiful lagoon. The Sofitel Ia Ora and Hotel Les Tipaniers have the best lagoons for watersports.
By far the most extensive array of sporting activities is at the Inter-Continental Moorea Beachcomber Resort (tel. 55.19.19), whose facilities can be used by both guests and visitors who are willing to pay. In addition to Bathy's Club Moorea scuba diving , these facilities include parasailing (magnificent views of the bays, mountains, and reefs); water-skiing; sailboarding; scooting about the lagoon and Opunohu Bay on jet skis; viewing coral and fish from Aquascope boats; walking on the lagoon bottom while wearing diving helmets; line fishing; and speedboat rentals. Nonguests can also pay to use the pool, snorkeling gear, tennis courts, and to be taken over to a small islet. Call the hotel for prices, schedules, and reservations, which are required.
Sharing the lagoon with the Sofitel Ia Ora, the Temae Plage Publique (Tamae Public Beach) has some of the island's best snorkeling. Another top spot is east of Maharepa village; look for a sprawling rain tree and gray electrical box on the mountain side of the road.
